Blue Russians and Dentalium Necklace w/ matching Earrings

Blue Russian Trade Beads & Dentalium Necklace by Janet Walker

Dentalium shell (Dentalium pretiosum) was traded extensively throughout North America and was used as a medium for decoration and ornamentation by many Native American tribes. (3) Numerous examples of early and late 19th century use of dentalium neclaces, earrings and clothing decoration by Native American western and plains tribes can be found in early works by artists, photographers and in museums.

Dentalium are variously sized ocean mollusks that resemble miniature elephant tusks and may grow up to several inches in length. They first appear in the archaeological record of Pacific Northwest coastal communities around 4400 B.C.E., but in small numbers.  After 1800 B.C.E., dentalium became more commonly found—particularly among the graves of high status individuals. Archaeologists credit their increased appearance during that time to a corresponding intensification of Native economies. As more complex trade relations developed along the Northwest Coast, dentalium became a highly prized mark of wealth and status, typically displayed as ornaments in clothing and headdresses, used as jewelry, and even used in some places as a type of currency.” (1) The Chinook word for Dentalium is coop-coop meaning shell money. And the Chinook Jargon was the language of trade that enabled a lot of people who spoke other languages to communicate.

Hilary Stewart (2) Dentalium Broom

Most dentalium entering the indigenous trade network of the Pacific Northwest originated off the coast of Vancouver Island. The Makah of northern Washington state and the  Northern Nuu-chah-nulth, inhabitants of the west coast of the island, were the primary source of the shells.  However, the Kwakwaka’wakw on the eastern coast were also large producers. Harvesters would work from their ocean-going canoes, extending specially-constructed long poles to the dentalium beds on the ocean floor. At the end of the long poles were large brushes made from cedar splints that were pushed into the mollusk beds ensnaring dentalium in the process. The Northwest coast people had a monopoly on dentalia, trading it (sorted by size) in standard lengths or containers, to people all up the Pacific coast. Through successive trading, the shells found their way over the coastal mountains and inland as far as the Great Plains.(2)

Dentalium destined for the Columbia River trade network found their way south through the hands of the Makah, inhabiting the northwest region of the Olympic Peninsula, and then further south to the Chinook on the lower Columbia River. Chinook traders, in turn, bartered with peoples from the Interior and the Willamette and Klamath River Valleys. Each summer, dentalium were also traded at The Dalles/Celilo trade-mart, the largest in the Pacific Northwest.  From there, dentalium made their way east as far as the Great Plains. A wonderful little museum in Newport, Oregon has many trade beads and dentalium decorated regalia to view. Coming from the Washington coast and seeing Dentalium regalia and jewelry in many places I was surprised to see the extensive collection in Newport, OR.  It opened my eyes (once again!) to the trade system within the native community.  The Siletz Indians in Oregon used these shells wonderfully and traded for them from the Makah on the northern tip of Washington and the Nootka natives off the coast of Vancouver Island.

During one of my favorite pastimes of snooping through museums I’m often finding dentalium strung up some way with Blue Russians.  That little museum in Newport, OR is full of them, and no wonder, they are the perfect complement.  Gorgeous white dentalium with deep cobalt glass, hand faceted Blue Russians are a sparkling combination as you can see in my little necklace here.  The Blue Russians came on the trade scene much later than the dentalium, but they’re both steeped in history of the fur trade and early America.  See my posts about Blue Russians to get a good idea of their history and importance. In this necklace I’ve put Czech cobalt round glass beads to facilitate comfort and good movement of the necklace.  It has some nice big Russians, Sterling clasp and earwires and is about 20 inches long.  It’s a pretty dramatic looking combination.

(1) Joshua Binus, © Oregon Historical Society, 2003
drawing of spear used by Nuu-chah-nulth to gather dentalia shells by Hilary Stewart
(2) Hilary Stewart, Jewitt’s Narrative, 1995
(3) A very interesting  article “Dentalium Shell Artifacts from a 6600 yr old Occupation of Otter Cave, San Miquel Island” by Jon M Erlandson, Rene’ L. Vellanoweth, Annie C. Caruso, and Melissa R. Reid. http://www.pcas.org/assets/documents/Dentaliuim_001.pdf..pdf  talks about detalium shells found all the way from Southern California to northern Alaska.